Basic Knitting Pattern for a Beanie

Child's Pine BeanieThis basic knitted beanie was made with less than one skein of Debbie Mumm Pine Needle Traditions yarn (each skein is 148.73 yards). It’s very soft (75% acrylic, 23% wool, and 2% other); you should not hear complaints about itching. The yarn was purchased at Jo-Ann stores.

Here’s the pattern:

Size 8 circular needles (16-inches long) and size 8 double-pointed needles

Pattern (modified on March 6, 2010):

Cast on 88 stitches, join in circle. Do not twist stitches. Place a marker at start of round.

Top of tween's pine beanieRow 1: knit across

Row 2:
pearl across

Row 3: knit across

Row 4:
pearl across

Row 5 :
knit across

Rows (middle):
Create K2 P2 ribbing. Use this pattern for 6-7 inches.

Try on the hat (securing the needles with a rubber band will keep the stitches from falling off of the needles.) If you feel you need more length continue the ribbing, or you can add an extra knit row between every decrease row. Your choice. You do want your hat to be long enough to cover the ears.

Before you begin decreasing, while working your last row of ribbing, place a marker after every 11th stitch.

Rows (decreasing for top of hat) :

You’ll be k2tog before the markers. Remember, you can add an optional knit row between each of these decrease rows if you need additional length.

  • knit 9 stitches, then k2tog, repeat across row.
  • knit 8 stitches, then k2tog, repeat across row.
  • knit 7 stitches, then k2tog, repeat across row.
  • knit 6 stitches, then k2tog, repeat across row.
  • knit 5 stitches, then k2tog, repeat across row. (It may be around now that you’ll need to switch to double-pointed needles.)
  • Continue in this way… until you are knitting 2 stitches together all the way across the row.
  • Gather up the remaining stitches on a tapestry needle and draw the yarn through the remaining stitches. Pull the yarn gently to close up the top of the hat. Run the yarn to the inside of the hat and run it through the seams and knot if necessary.

Note: Your stitches will decrease across the rows as follows:

• Rows before decrease = 88 stitches
• Row after 1st decrease = 80 stitches
• Row after 2nd decrease = 72 stitches
• Row after 3rd decrease = 64 stitches…and on…all divisible by 8.

Please let me know if you run into any issues. I want to make sure the pattern is working.


  • dmariemart

    Hi Marie,

    Based on your feedback, I have updated the pattern to provide greater clarity. I’m sorry for the inconvenience the pattern brought you earlier. I hope I have now provided better instructions.

  • Marie

    there is something that I don’t understand. If I start with 88 stitches, then knit 9 knit 2 together then I end up with 80 stitches. How to you end with 72 stitches. Or did I misunderstand something.

  • Janet

    Question regarding decreasing the top. Do you do a plain knit round between each decrease round? I have been making lots of knit hats lately and all of them have a plain knit round between the decrease rounds so I was just wondering.

    • dmariemart

      You’ve asked a really good question! I did not add a knit row between the decrease rows. The top when not stretched over a noggin has a tight compact look. Given that there is not a knit row between the decrease rows, you’ll have to make sure that you pay attention to the length of the hat (all of that stitching before you get to the decrease rows). I usually try on a hat while it’s still on the needles to make sure I’m getting the length right. If you do that, be careful not to drop stitches off of your needles. Big rubber bands are my best friend. I wind them around the needle points before I try on the hat.

  • shareleann

    That looks like a perfect hat for my tween! I thinkI will make one tonight! Thanks for the great tutorial!